Are you concerned when your dog or cat eats grass, then throws up afterwards? You'll probably feel relieved to know that pets eat grass because their bodies need it.
Dogs and cats have been eating grass for a long time. In fact, grass is so popular among dogs that one species, dog grass, is named after them. Dog grass is also known as couch grass and quackweed, and it grows in all but the southern-most states.
You can think of grass as an herbal medicine. It acts as an internal cleanser, expelling excess mucus, bile, and other impurities. It also cleanses the bowels and expels worms. Cereal grasses contain enzymes, vitamins, minerals, and amino acids. Grass also contains chlorophyll, which was used for relieving pain, treating infections, ulcers, skin diseases, and anemia prior to the use of antibiotics.
Some pet owners grow grass specifically to give to their pets to prevent or treat diarrhea, anemia, cataracts, fleas, tumors excessive shedding, and other pet health problems. Pets that are fed grass on a regular basis are less likely to crave outdoor grass. So, if you don't feel comfortable with your pet eating the grass in your lawn, you may want to grow your own grass for them to eat.
Try growing rye or barley sprouts. These sprouts are preferred over wheat grass because some animals are sensitive to wheat.
Follow these instructions to grow rye or barley grass. Soak one cup organically grown grain in one quart water for 8 to 10 hours. Then drain the container and leave it on its side in a warm place, away from direct sunlight. A tiny white rootlet will sprout from each grain within 24 to 48 hours. Caution: If you don't see these rootlets, your grain isn't viable and should be thrown away.
Next, spread the sprouting grain on one inch of moist potting soil or top soil in a plastic garden tray. For drainage create a one inch channel around the soil.
For two days, cover the tray. Then uncover it, and water thoroughly. Place the tray in direct sunlight or under grow lights. Keep the soil moist by watering when needed.
When the grass is 6-8" tall, cut it with scissors or a sharp knife. Place grasses in a ziploc bag, along with a damp paper towel. Be sure to expel air from the bag before sealing. Then store the grass in the refrigerator.
When feeding the grass to your pet, cut or mince it into tiny pieces, or place a small amount in a blender or food processor with other foods. To be sure your cat or dog will accept the grass, begin feeding just a fraction of a teaspoon. Increase the amount gradually to approximately one tablespoon per 50 lbs. of body weight.
Once your pet is given the amount of grass his body needs, you probably won't be seeing him eating the grass in your lawn. And you can feel relieved knowing that you're feeding him something that he craves and that his body needs.
Read more...
Sunday, December 23, 2007
The Positve Benefits of Dog Day Care
Dog day care programs benefit the dogs of owner's who have busy lives and are not able to socialize and exercise their dogs. Owners benefit from a guilt free day of work or play and can come home to a calm, relaxed pet. Dog day care provides the best of both worlds for dogs and owners alike.
Getting its start in California in 1987, dog day care has exploded to virtually every small town in America. Started by dog enthusiasts, owners apply the same principles of running any business combined with their love of dogs to the create the ultimate day care business.
"The guiding principle behind dog day care is simple ? provide a safe and healthy atmosphere with lots of interaction, both with other dogs and with people. Dogs can participate in group play, gnaw on a favorite toy, hang out with humans in the office, or just lounge on a couch and watch television. The point is that they're not at home by themselves."
Other benefits of dog day care include a social environment where dogs can play together, loads of activity, an excellent release for high energy dogs, year round daycare operation (except for major holidays), attention by trained staff members, and piece of mind for the working owner.
Dog day care centers are mostly held in large, open spaces that have some separation system for both size and temperament. Most dog day care centers have an outdoor exercise area as well. Some day cares provide furniture for dogs to climb on, agility equipment, and lots of toys.
Some things to consider when looking for a dog day care are the professionalism of the staff. Make sure they love dogs, know a lot about dogs behaviors, and interact with those in dog day care each day. Also, note the availability of space and "time-out" areas for dogs who do not get along. Make sure your dog will be comfortable with air condition, heat, and bedding. Also, check affordability and general dog day care policies.
Read more...
Getting its start in California in 1987, dog day care has exploded to virtually every small town in America. Started by dog enthusiasts, owners apply the same principles of running any business combined with their love of dogs to the create the ultimate day care business.
"The guiding principle behind dog day care is simple ? provide a safe and healthy atmosphere with lots of interaction, both with other dogs and with people. Dogs can participate in group play, gnaw on a favorite toy, hang out with humans in the office, or just lounge on a couch and watch television. The point is that they're not at home by themselves."
Other benefits of dog day care include a social environment where dogs can play together, loads of activity, an excellent release for high energy dogs, year round daycare operation (except for major holidays), attention by trained staff members, and piece of mind for the working owner.
Dog day care centers are mostly held in large, open spaces that have some separation system for both size and temperament. Most dog day care centers have an outdoor exercise area as well. Some day cares provide furniture for dogs to climb on, agility equipment, and lots of toys.
Some things to consider when looking for a dog day care are the professionalism of the staff. Make sure they love dogs, know a lot about dogs behaviors, and interact with those in dog day care each day. Also, note the availability of space and "time-out" areas for dogs who do not get along. Make sure your dog will be comfortable with air condition, heat, and bedding. Also, check affordability and general dog day care policies.
Read more...
Sunday, December 9, 2007
Nutrition and Your Dogs Behavior
Proper nutrition is the fundamental basis for every aspect of your dog's life.
It affects their health and longevity by offering an essential balance of proteins, fats, complex carbohydrates and the trace nutrients and minerals their bodies need for growth, repair and the mantainance of a sound immunne system.
Nutrition is a complex and integral part of your dog's ability to think clearly, lower stress levels and produce a calmer behavior.
Thinking takes a lot of energy. Dogs invoved in a training program, expend tremendous amounts of mental energy focusing on the tasks presented to them. If your dog starts with minimal nutrition, they become lethargic, edgy or hyper active when asked to perform the simplest of tasks. They cannot focus and loss concentration after a short period of time or become confused. If the dog is continually asked to do something they cannot comprehend, confusion can lead to an aggressive form of acting out.
In training dogs, the first thing I look at is the dog's diet! I work from the inside out. Training becomes ineffective if the underlying caiuse for the behaviors are not changed.
Hyper, unfocused and out of control dogs often eat foods with high levels of cereal compounds such as: wheat, corn and corn meal.
Aggressive dogs eat foods contain higher levels of incomplete protein which produce excessive amounts of energy. These proteins are often incomplete chains, not offering proper building and repair or may be difficult to digest.
Shy or stressed dogs do not digest their foods well at all and can suffer from intestinal complications such as diarrhea. Their coats are often dry, brittle and shed heavily.
One way to test the foods you are feeding is to soak the food in water for about 30 minutes. If it swells in size and becomes mushy, it is primarily cereal.
Are your dog's stool soft and loose or is the dog gassy? If so, they are not digesting the food properly.
By looking at their food, you will do more to help balance their behavior, as well as, contribute to their health and longevity.
Life Abundance offeres the best combination of balanced nutrients for a proper diet.
The proteins are complete chains and digest easily.
The carbohydrates are complex and do not turn into simple sugars producing energy swings of high and low behaviors.
The Probiotics in the food balance the intestinal tract and make the food digest more easily, which is perfect for the nervous or shy dog and ensures all dogs are recieving the nutrients they need from the food.
Read more...
It affects their health and longevity by offering an essential balance of proteins, fats, complex carbohydrates and the trace nutrients and minerals their bodies need for growth, repair and the mantainance of a sound immunne system.
Nutrition is a complex and integral part of your dog's ability to think clearly, lower stress levels and produce a calmer behavior.
Thinking takes a lot of energy. Dogs invoved in a training program, expend tremendous amounts of mental energy focusing on the tasks presented to them. If your dog starts with minimal nutrition, they become lethargic, edgy or hyper active when asked to perform the simplest of tasks. They cannot focus and loss concentration after a short period of time or become confused. If the dog is continually asked to do something they cannot comprehend, confusion can lead to an aggressive form of acting out.
In training dogs, the first thing I look at is the dog's diet! I work from the inside out. Training becomes ineffective if the underlying caiuse for the behaviors are not changed.
Hyper, unfocused and out of control dogs often eat foods with high levels of cereal compounds such as: wheat, corn and corn meal.
Aggressive dogs eat foods contain higher levels of incomplete protein which produce excessive amounts of energy. These proteins are often incomplete chains, not offering proper building and repair or may be difficult to digest.
Shy or stressed dogs do not digest their foods well at all and can suffer from intestinal complications such as diarrhea. Their coats are often dry, brittle and shed heavily.
One way to test the foods you are feeding is to soak the food in water for about 30 minutes. If it swells in size and becomes mushy, it is primarily cereal.
Are your dog's stool soft and loose or is the dog gassy? If so, they are not digesting the food properly.
By looking at their food, you will do more to help balance their behavior, as well as, contribute to their health and longevity.
Life Abundance offeres the best combination of balanced nutrients for a proper diet.
The proteins are complete chains and digest easily.
The carbohydrates are complex and do not turn into simple sugars producing energy swings of high and low behaviors.
The Probiotics in the food balance the intestinal tract and make the food digest more easily, which is perfect for the nervous or shy dog and ensures all dogs are recieving the nutrients they need from the food.
Read more...
Saturday, December 8, 2007
Do You Know About Boxer Dogs?
Boxer Dogs Information - What Are Boxer Dogs?
Boxer dogs are great all around dog breeds, distinguished
canine and the coolest, most lovable dog out there!
Boxer Dogs are medium-built and strong breed that are
so named because of its habit of standing on the hind legs
to begin a fight and boxing with the front paws.
By nature, Boxer dogs are working dogs. Throughout
history it has been trained as:
- hunting dog
- police dog
- seeing-eye dog for the blind
- guard dog
- circus dog
- courier dog on the battlefields during World War
I and World War II
- fighting dog in the once popular sport of dog fighting.
The American Kennel Club (AKC) categorizes dogs into
7 groups of herding, hound, non-sporting, sporting,
terrier, toy and working. And the largest breed registered
in the working dog category is the Boxer.
No doubt the Boxer Dogs make for great utility dog but
the greatest advantage to owning one is that Boxer Dogs
can be your most outstanding companion on four legs
and great source of personal fulfillment.
By the way, the AKC registered over 150 different breeds
totaling nearly one million dogs in 2003. To put that in
perspective, the animal shelters in America rescue up to
12 million homeless dogs and cats every year and 25%
of these are purebreds.
Devoted and glad owners of Boxer Dogs have come up
with a long list of attributes and traits of their favorite
pet that include:
Alert
Boisterous
Boundless energy
Brave
Canine clown
Courageous
Devil dog
Devoted
Dignified
Exuberance
Family dog
Fearless
Friendly
Hearing dog
Highly trainable
Intelligent
Intuitive
Keen judge of character
Loving
Loyal
Patient with children
People dog
Poor swimmer
Playful
Quick learner
Self-assured
Smart
Soulful
Spirited
Stoical
Vigilant
Working dog
Wonderful pet
And you can add to the list?
The Boxer Dog's history could be traced back to
feudal Germany, where it was a small hunting dog that
could tenaciously hold onto a bull, boar, or bear till
the master arrived. It was also a utility dog for peasants
and shop owners, and even a performing dog in circus.
The Boxer Dogs as we know it today is a bigger breed ?
a mixture of the German Boxer with a taller, more
elegant English import. The era of this modern Boxer
began in the 1880s and became really popular in the
United States in the late 1930s-1940s.
Handsome dog: Within the canine world, Boxer Dogs
are medium-sized dog standing at 21 to 25 inches at
the shoulder for a full-grown female, and weighs some
50 to 65 pounds. The male can be taller and 15 pounds
heavier.
It has a striking good look with chiseled head, square
jaw and muscled body that make for a very handsome
silhouette.
The ears are cropped and erect that enhance its hearing ?
the Boxer most developed sense. It is always alert and
vigilant, an instinctive guard dog.
The shortened muzzle makes hot and humid weather
uncomfortable for the Boxer Dogs.
The coat is short, hard and smooth, and possesses
a natural sheen that can be enhanced with rubdowns
with a chamois cloth (especially after a bath).
The short coat cannot protect him well from extreme
elements of the weather and thus Boxer Dogs should
definitely not be kept outdoors. It is a housedog,
sensitive to temperature extremes, does not enjoy
the draft, summer heat or cold.
Boxer Dogs come in attractive basic colors of fawn
and brindle. The fawn varies from a tawny tan to
an especially beautiful stag red. The brindle (clearly
defined black stripes on a fawn background) can be
sparse, in between or dense.
A beauty standard for Boxer Dogs is that their white
markings or "flash" should add to their look and may
not cover more than one-third of the entire body. Some
predominantly or all-white puppies (known as "check")
may be born in a litter.
In the US, however, the American Boxer Club members
are pledged not to register, sell or use these "whites"
for breeding so as to retain the beauty of the true fawn
and brindle colors in the breed.
Personality-wise, Boxer is a cool dog that will not bark
without cause. Its expressive face ? the furrowed
forehead and dark, soulful eyes - is a charming quality
that sets the Boxer apart from other breeds.
It can mimic the moods of its master and adopting one
could bring you 9 to 11 years of joyful companionship.
In exceptional cases the Boxer can live up to 15 years.
Boxer Dogs As Pet
Pet Boxer Dogs, although low-maintenance, require
your consistent attention, exercise, human interaction,
consistent obedience training and lots of love. You
cannot leave them to their own design for too long or
they get lonely, bored and into trouble.
Being a big and strong dog as well as a highly
intelligent one, Boxer Dogs need both physical and
mental stimulations to keep them even-tempered and
dignified while still keeping their impish spirit and
fearless courage in tact.
Read more...
Boxer dogs are great all around dog breeds, distinguished
canine and the coolest, most lovable dog out there!
Boxer Dogs are medium-built and strong breed that are
so named because of its habit of standing on the hind legs
to begin a fight and boxing with the front paws.
By nature, Boxer dogs are working dogs. Throughout
history it has been trained as:
- hunting dog
- police dog
- seeing-eye dog for the blind
- guard dog
- circus dog
- courier dog on the battlefields during World War
I and World War II
- fighting dog in the once popular sport of dog fighting.
The American Kennel Club (AKC) categorizes dogs into
7 groups of herding, hound, non-sporting, sporting,
terrier, toy and working. And the largest breed registered
in the working dog category is the Boxer.
No doubt the Boxer Dogs make for great utility dog but
the greatest advantage to owning one is that Boxer Dogs
can be your most outstanding companion on four legs
and great source of personal fulfillment.
By the way, the AKC registered over 150 different breeds
totaling nearly one million dogs in 2003. To put that in
perspective, the animal shelters in America rescue up to
12 million homeless dogs and cats every year and 25%
of these are purebreds.
Devoted and glad owners of Boxer Dogs have come up
with a long list of attributes and traits of their favorite
pet that include:
Alert
Boisterous
Boundless energy
Brave
Canine clown
Courageous
Devil dog
Devoted
Dignified
Exuberance
Family dog
Fearless
Friendly
Hearing dog
Highly trainable
Intelligent
Intuitive
Keen judge of character
Loving
Loyal
Patient with children
People dog
Poor swimmer
Playful
Quick learner
Self-assured
Smart
Soulful
Spirited
Stoical
Vigilant
Working dog
Wonderful pet
And you can add to the list?
The Boxer Dog's history could be traced back to
feudal Germany, where it was a small hunting dog that
could tenaciously hold onto a bull, boar, or bear till
the master arrived. It was also a utility dog for peasants
and shop owners, and even a performing dog in circus.
The Boxer Dogs as we know it today is a bigger breed ?
a mixture of the German Boxer with a taller, more
elegant English import. The era of this modern Boxer
began in the 1880s and became really popular in the
United States in the late 1930s-1940s.
Handsome dog: Within the canine world, Boxer Dogs
are medium-sized dog standing at 21 to 25 inches at
the shoulder for a full-grown female, and weighs some
50 to 65 pounds. The male can be taller and 15 pounds
heavier.
It has a striking good look with chiseled head, square
jaw and muscled body that make for a very handsome
silhouette.
The ears are cropped and erect that enhance its hearing ?
the Boxer most developed sense. It is always alert and
vigilant, an instinctive guard dog.
The shortened muzzle makes hot and humid weather
uncomfortable for the Boxer Dogs.
The coat is short, hard and smooth, and possesses
a natural sheen that can be enhanced with rubdowns
with a chamois cloth (especially after a bath).
The short coat cannot protect him well from extreme
elements of the weather and thus Boxer Dogs should
definitely not be kept outdoors. It is a housedog,
sensitive to temperature extremes, does not enjoy
the draft, summer heat or cold.
Boxer Dogs come in attractive basic colors of fawn
and brindle. The fawn varies from a tawny tan to
an especially beautiful stag red. The brindle (clearly
defined black stripes on a fawn background) can be
sparse, in between or dense.
A beauty standard for Boxer Dogs is that their white
markings or "flash" should add to their look and may
not cover more than one-third of the entire body. Some
predominantly or all-white puppies (known as "check")
may be born in a litter.
In the US, however, the American Boxer Club members
are pledged not to register, sell or use these "whites"
for breeding so as to retain the beauty of the true fawn
and brindle colors in the breed.
Personality-wise, Boxer is a cool dog that will not bark
without cause. Its expressive face ? the furrowed
forehead and dark, soulful eyes - is a charming quality
that sets the Boxer apart from other breeds.
It can mimic the moods of its master and adopting one
could bring you 9 to 11 years of joyful companionship.
In exceptional cases the Boxer can live up to 15 years.
Boxer Dogs As Pet
Pet Boxer Dogs, although low-maintenance, require
your consistent attention, exercise, human interaction,
consistent obedience training and lots of love. You
cannot leave them to their own design for too long or
they get lonely, bored and into trouble.
Being a big and strong dog as well as a highly
intelligent one, Boxer Dogs need both physical and
mental stimulations to keep them even-tempered and
dignified while still keeping their impish spirit and
fearless courage in tact.
Read more...
Sunday, September 16, 2007
DHLPPCv
Most puppies will get a combination vaccine, called a MULTIVALENT vaccine, which protects against more than one disease. This combination vaccine allows the puppy to be vaccinated via a single injection rather than having to receive four or five separate inoculations.
Multivalent vaccines are those that have more than one
disease antigen combined into one injection.
A typical multivalent vaccine is the DHLPPCv vaccine for dogs. Instead of giving six different injections, all these "vaccines" or antigens can be given in a single small volume injection. Certainly this is easier on the dog than getting six separate injections.
DHLPPCv stands for:
D... Canine Distemper Virus... a dangerous viral infection. "Distemper" is an odd name for a viral infection and this disease has no relationship to nor connection with a dog's temperament.
H... Hepatitis...a viral infection caused by two related viruses that mainly affects the liver.
L... Leptospirosis... a bacterial infection affecting the kidneys. This class of bacteria can infect humans, cows, dogs, pigs and other mammals.
P... Parainfluenza... a virus that along with the Hepatitis virus can cause upper respiratory infections.
P... Parvovirus... a severe and often fatal virus affecting the lining of the intestinal tract.
Cv... Coronavirus... is very similar to the Parvovirus, can be very severe, but has a somewhat different effect on the intestinal tract and generally is not fatal.
Read more...
Multivalent vaccines are those that have more than one
disease antigen combined into one injection.
A typical multivalent vaccine is the DHLPPCv vaccine for dogs. Instead of giving six different injections, all these "vaccines" or antigens can be given in a single small volume injection. Certainly this is easier on the dog than getting six separate injections.
DHLPPCv stands for:
D... Canine Distemper Virus... a dangerous viral infection. "Distemper" is an odd name for a viral infection and this disease has no relationship to nor connection with a dog's temperament.
H... Hepatitis...a viral infection caused by two related viruses that mainly affects the liver.
L... Leptospirosis... a bacterial infection affecting the kidneys. This class of bacteria can infect humans, cows, dogs, pigs and other mammals.
P... Parainfluenza... a virus that along with the Hepatitis virus can cause upper respiratory infections.
P... Parvovirus... a severe and often fatal virus affecting the lining of the intestinal tract.
Cv... Coronavirus... is very similar to the Parvovirus, can be very severe, but has a somewhat different effect on the intestinal tract and generally is not fatal.
Read more...
Wednesday, July 25, 2007
THE POWER OF FLEAS!
Fleas are insects of which most of us have had some dealing with in the past. This fact sheet contains some statistics which I find quite remarkable and frightening at the same time.
Why try and control the flea population?
At the very least, fleas cause irritation and skin problems in pets - you'll see this if your pet is itching, scratching or biting their coat. Newly hatched fleas will often jump onto pet owners causing discomfort for us too, but the problem doesn't end there. Fleas can carry diseases that affect people as well as pets.
Fleas can carry tapeworm, which infect cats and dogs. Ask your vet about worming, especially if you've seen any fleas.
Fleas are involved in the transmission of Bartonella henselae, a bacteria known to cause mild flu-like symptoms in people.
Fleas can also carry Rickettsia species, a bacterium that causes fever and a skin rash in humans.
Adult fleas, which are dark brown and about 2 to 4mm long, jump onto our pets, bite them and suck blood from their skin. After feeding, the flea lays eggs that drop off into the carpets and soft furnishings.
Eggs, larvae and pupae can be carried around the house on the soles of our shoes. On becoming adult the fleas jump onto our pets and bite them and the cycle begins again.
The life cycle of the flea can take between 12 days and 1 year. That is, in favourable conditions the time between flea eggs being laid and emergence of the biting adult is only 12 days. Alternatively during cold conditions this process can take up to a year. Flea eggs can therefore be present undetected in an unheated cold house for some time, and then if the heating is turned on or the weather warms up, hey presto – we have bouncing biting fleas!
Supposing the environmental conditions are exactly as fleas would like ……
A female flea can lay 40-60 eggs per day. In three months, having had a favourable host to feed on –your dog or cat – more than 2 thousand descendants can arise, who are all capable of reproducing at this same rate!
In the absence of any antiparasitic treatments, this is an obviously an explosive situation. Allowing for the time to complete the life cycle, one pregnant flea can generate 700 fleas in around a month.
Leaves you with a shiver up your spine!
Assuming that half the population is female, after 2 more months, there will be not 1,400 fleas but 250,000 new fleas theoretically. WOW!
So …what conditions do fleas love…?
They prefer humid heat, as shown by the example below.
At 16° C and 33% humidity about 70% of eggs hatch into larvae, however at the same temperature but 50% humidity approximately 90% of eggs hatch.
What conditions do fleas hate…?
Long periods of dry heat followed by cold, reduces the reproduction of fleas.
In France the year 2003 for example, was hot and dry from June until the end of August, with at least 15 consecutive days above 35°C and in fact nearer 40°C. This was followed by a cold autumn, and as a result there was little effect from fleas during the autumn and winter of 2003.
However, we have just had 3 years of favourable conditions for the flea, with summers not very hot and dry, and the other seasons relatively warm and humid.
There are plenty of pet owners who only think about fleas between June and August, but they will start multiplying behind enemy lines from March if the conditions allow. This can be the reason why people lose faith in flea treatments, when there are such huge numbers in the house already, it can take 4-6months to regain control of the situation. Eggs are hatching out continuously, and even if the adult fleas are killed, more fleas are hatching and so the owner thinks that the treatments are not working.
Similarly if the owners stop using flea treatments as soon as they feel summer is over, a rebound effect can take place, because the treatment over the summer was not long enough to
control the number of flea eggs in the house, these then hatch out because of a mild damp autumn/winter and hey presto we still have fleas biting our pets. This stopping of treatments early, makes a mockery of having treated during the summer, as most of the benefits are lost;
Signs of flea infestation on dogs and cats.
Obviously there is general itching, in response to the flea bites. A common sight during the spring and summer are dogs and cats with a balding triangular shaped area at the top of the tail, running along the back. This is the ‘flea triangle’. Often small black pieces can be seen on the skin which when wetted on a piece of white tissue or paper turn red. These are dried blood, the flea faeces.
Some animals are allergic to flea bites, and react by excessively licking or scratching. Cats can lick all the hair off their belly and inside thighs. Once the scratched skin becomes infected, the animals can be very sore, smelly and they can become quite grumpy as they feel unwell. This is when just applying the flea treatments will not work; the pet will benefit from antibiotics, and perhaps calming shampoos and steroids.
Humans can be bitten, usually around the ankles, but it is believed that the flea does not reproduce after feeding on humans, only on dogs and cats.
Prevention and treatment of flea problems…..
In our campaign against the flea we therefore have two battles to fight. The first against the adult fleas, the second against the huge numbers of eggs, larvae and pupae found in the environment.
Adult flea treatments.
There are a multitude of treatments on the market for example shampoos, spot-ons, sprays, collars, tablets……, some of which will worm and/or treat for ticks/mites as well.
Environmental control.
Firstly, vacuum the whole house thoroughly, including furniture and mattresses. This does two things - it mops up the majority of the infestation, and it also vibrates the eggs and larvae left behind, which encourages their development into adults. In that form they are more vulnerable to insecticidal attack. Having finished vacuuming, empty the vacuum cleaner and dispose of the contents - preferably by burning them. A bin bag full of fleas is a potent flea bomb!
a) Program -is an anti-fertility drug for fleas. It DOESN'T kill fleas. It stops them getting out of the flea egg. And there they die. So no more fleas…..eventually.
You must give "program" to every dog or cat that has access to your house. Miss out one and it won't work at all. It's is given to dogs as a pill once a month. For cats it is given as a small tube of liquid IN THEIR FOOD every month. (In the UK they can have an injection every 6 month – not available in France.). From time to time, fleas in the house "visit" the pets, and "feed". In doing so, they will pick up the "program" drug which will sterilise the fleas at this time. Of course this method takes time - the length of time will depend on many factors local to your own flea problem. An existing flea problem may take several months to die out by this method. This is because the flea eggs laid before Program was started, will continue to hatch out for some time. But once you start on Program - keep it up. And then if the pet picks up any more fleas from outside contacts, they will immediately be rendered infertile!
b) Frontline combo – this is frontline with an extra component to prevent development of flea eggs, larvae, and pupae.
c) Tiquanis and other household sprays. When you spray the house, spray every square inch of every mat/carpet in every room of the whole house. And under the suite, under its cushions, on top of them, the bottoms of the curtains, under the mattresses of the beds, in the pets beds, and everywhere else that's made of fabric. And if your dog(s) go in the car, then spray inside the car as well! Do it once. Do it well!
Read more...
Why try and control the flea population?
At the very least, fleas cause irritation and skin problems in pets - you'll see this if your pet is itching, scratching or biting their coat. Newly hatched fleas will often jump onto pet owners causing discomfort for us too, but the problem doesn't end there. Fleas can carry diseases that affect people as well as pets.
Fleas can carry tapeworm, which infect cats and dogs. Ask your vet about worming, especially if you've seen any fleas.
Fleas are involved in the transmission of Bartonella henselae, a bacteria known to cause mild flu-like symptoms in people.
Fleas can also carry Rickettsia species, a bacterium that causes fever and a skin rash in humans.
Adult fleas, which are dark brown and about 2 to 4mm long, jump onto our pets, bite them and suck blood from their skin. After feeding, the flea lays eggs that drop off into the carpets and soft furnishings.
Eggs, larvae and pupae can be carried around the house on the soles of our shoes. On becoming adult the fleas jump onto our pets and bite them and the cycle begins again.
The life cycle of the flea can take between 12 days and 1 year. That is, in favourable conditions the time between flea eggs being laid and emergence of the biting adult is only 12 days. Alternatively during cold conditions this process can take up to a year. Flea eggs can therefore be present undetected in an unheated cold house for some time, and then if the heating is turned on or the weather warms up, hey presto – we have bouncing biting fleas!
Supposing the environmental conditions are exactly as fleas would like ……
A female flea can lay 40-60 eggs per day. In three months, having had a favourable host to feed on –your dog or cat – more than 2 thousand descendants can arise, who are all capable of reproducing at this same rate!
In the absence of any antiparasitic treatments, this is an obviously an explosive situation. Allowing for the time to complete the life cycle, one pregnant flea can generate 700 fleas in around a month.
Leaves you with a shiver up your spine!
Assuming that half the population is female, after 2 more months, there will be not 1,400 fleas but 250,000 new fleas theoretically. WOW!
So …what conditions do fleas love…?
They prefer humid heat, as shown by the example below.
At 16° C and 33% humidity about 70% of eggs hatch into larvae, however at the same temperature but 50% humidity approximately 90% of eggs hatch.
What conditions do fleas hate…?
Long periods of dry heat followed by cold, reduces the reproduction of fleas.
In France the year 2003 for example, was hot and dry from June until the end of August, with at least 15 consecutive days above 35°C and in fact nearer 40°C. This was followed by a cold autumn, and as a result there was little effect from fleas during the autumn and winter of 2003.
However, we have just had 3 years of favourable conditions for the flea, with summers not very hot and dry, and the other seasons relatively warm and humid.
There are plenty of pet owners who only think about fleas between June and August, but they will start multiplying behind enemy lines from March if the conditions allow. This can be the reason why people lose faith in flea treatments, when there are such huge numbers in the house already, it can take 4-6months to regain control of the situation. Eggs are hatching out continuously, and even if the adult fleas are killed, more fleas are hatching and so the owner thinks that the treatments are not working.
Similarly if the owners stop using flea treatments as soon as they feel summer is over, a rebound effect can take place, because the treatment over the summer was not long enough to
control the number of flea eggs in the house, these then hatch out because of a mild damp autumn/winter and hey presto we still have fleas biting our pets. This stopping of treatments early, makes a mockery of having treated during the summer, as most of the benefits are lost;
Signs of flea infestation on dogs and cats.
Obviously there is general itching, in response to the flea bites. A common sight during the spring and summer are dogs and cats with a balding triangular shaped area at the top of the tail, running along the back. This is the ‘flea triangle’. Often small black pieces can be seen on the skin which when wetted on a piece of white tissue or paper turn red. These are dried blood, the flea faeces.
Some animals are allergic to flea bites, and react by excessively licking or scratching. Cats can lick all the hair off their belly and inside thighs. Once the scratched skin becomes infected, the animals can be very sore, smelly and they can become quite grumpy as they feel unwell. This is when just applying the flea treatments will not work; the pet will benefit from antibiotics, and perhaps calming shampoos and steroids.
Humans can be bitten, usually around the ankles, but it is believed that the flea does not reproduce after feeding on humans, only on dogs and cats.
Prevention and treatment of flea problems…..
In our campaign against the flea we therefore have two battles to fight. The first against the adult fleas, the second against the huge numbers of eggs, larvae and pupae found in the environment.
Adult flea treatments.
There are a multitude of treatments on the market for example shampoos, spot-ons, sprays, collars, tablets……, some of which will worm and/or treat for ticks/mites as well.
Environmental control.
Firstly, vacuum the whole house thoroughly, including furniture and mattresses. This does two things - it mops up the majority of the infestation, and it also vibrates the eggs and larvae left behind, which encourages their development into adults. In that form they are more vulnerable to insecticidal attack. Having finished vacuuming, empty the vacuum cleaner and dispose of the contents - preferably by burning them. A bin bag full of fleas is a potent flea bomb!
a) Program -is an anti-fertility drug for fleas. It DOESN'T kill fleas. It stops them getting out of the flea egg. And there they die. So no more fleas…..eventually.
You must give "program" to every dog or cat that has access to your house. Miss out one and it won't work at all. It's is given to dogs as a pill once a month. For cats it is given as a small tube of liquid IN THEIR FOOD every month. (In the UK they can have an injection every 6 month – not available in France.). From time to time, fleas in the house "visit" the pets, and "feed". In doing so, they will pick up the "program" drug which will sterilise the fleas at this time. Of course this method takes time - the length of time will depend on many factors local to your own flea problem. An existing flea problem may take several months to die out by this method. This is because the flea eggs laid before Program was started, will continue to hatch out for some time. But once you start on Program - keep it up. And then if the pet picks up any more fleas from outside contacts, they will immediately be rendered infertile!
b) Frontline combo – this is frontline with an extra component to prevent development of flea eggs, larvae, and pupae.
c) Tiquanis and other household sprays. When you spray the house, spray every square inch of every mat/carpet in every room of the whole house. And under the suite, under its cushions, on top of them, the bottoms of the curtains, under the mattresses of the beds, in the pets beds, and everywhere else that's made of fabric. And if your dog(s) go in the car, then spray inside the car as well! Do it once. Do it well!
Read more...
What are ticks?
Ticks are insects. They attach themselves to an infected mammal (deer, sheep, dog etc) and feed by puncturing a vein, that is, it feeds on blood.
In doing so, the parasite which is in the red blood cells, enters the tick. The tick then drops off and lays eggs which develop into a generation of infected ticks. Ticks are attracted to warmth, and so will attach to a dog (or other mammal) when passing. It will then have a blood meal, passing the parasite into the dog’s bloodstream in the process.
The parasite invades the red blood cells, causing the body to recognise that they are different and therefore reject and destroy them.
The ticks are most active when it is warm and wet i.e. spring and autumn. It is worth noting that the change in the climate giving us warmth up to December means that the dogs are at risk for a longer period of time than previously.
Signs to look out for –
Early signs are trembling and shivering. Depending on the severity of infection the dog will refuse food and is reluctant to leave his bed. This can happen very suddenly.
If you can see what colour the urine is (easier in males than females!), you will find that it is not the normal yellow colour, but brown in colour. This is the pigment from the red blood cells which are being destroyed. Also, the gums are paler due to the breakdown of red blood cells.
Those of you happy to wield a thermometer will find the temperature is often as high as 104°F or 40°C.
It is the rejection of the red blood cells which causes the clinical signs of lethargy, high temperature, discoloured urine (the pigments from the blood are excreted in the urine), yellowing of the skin, gums and around the eyes i.e. jaundice (when the amount of pigment broken down cannot be excreted quickly enough), muscle weakness and even convulsions.
If you suspect this disease, you must arrange for a vet to see your dog as soon as possible.
Diagnosis.
A definite diagnosis can be difficult, as a blood smear (taken from the ear or a toe) does not always show the parasite. However the vet will use his experience, and as rapid treatment is the key to success, will often treat regardless of whether the parasite is found.
There are blood tests to determine if there is a low grade infection, or to determine if the dog is reacting to an infection, but these take time to analyse and again, treatment is usually started before a result is obtained.
The basis of treatment is an injection which kills the parasite, and this can be repeated after several days. The injection is often painful, so be prepared.
Occasionally antibiotics are also given, and supportive therapy such as a drip or anti vomiting drugs can be useful. Other than that, lots of tender loving care, to persuade your pet to recover is the most valuable tool.
Prevention of the disease.
There are several paths to follow:
1) Firstly using anti tick treatments, such as Frontline or Advantix is very useful. These are easy to apply spot ons and to work well please follow the directions. They must be applied to the skin and not on the hair.
If using the Frontline pump spray, it is important to know your dog’s weight so the number of pumps can be calculated. For example a 30kg Labrador needs 60 pumps of the 250 or 500ml pump bottle!
There is an anti tick collar available called Scalibor, however as it does not treat for fleas, frontline ought to be used every 6-8 weeks in conjunction to prevent flea infestations. Advantix cannot be used with Scalibor, as they are both the same type of drug and an overdose may occur.
2) Then there is the obvious option of checking your dog over daily for ticks, especially in the armpits, groin, belly and between toes. The ease of this task varies greatly depending on the coat of the dog. The ticks can be easily removed using specially developed tools, available from pet shops and vets.
3) Vaccination can help, but the vaccines are not 100% sure and are expensive. These are best given when the disease is not very active, i.e. June/July and January/February.
Most pet owners in the UK are aware that if they bring a dog from mainland Europe into the UK, they must treat it with an anti tick treatment. However, how many treat before visiting mainland Europe with their dog? There is a real need to treat your dog with a proven anti-tick treatment, such as Frontline or Advantix, prior to your visit.
The manufacturers recommend monthly dosing with Advantix or Frontline to control ticks, local vets often advise every 3 weeks during periods of danger.
Read more...
In doing so, the parasite which is in the red blood cells, enters the tick. The tick then drops off and lays eggs which develop into a generation of infected ticks. Ticks are attracted to warmth, and so will attach to a dog (or other mammal) when passing. It will then have a blood meal, passing the parasite into the dog’s bloodstream in the process.
The parasite invades the red blood cells, causing the body to recognise that they are different and therefore reject and destroy them.
The ticks are most active when it is warm and wet i.e. spring and autumn. It is worth noting that the change in the climate giving us warmth up to December means that the dogs are at risk for a longer period of time than previously.
Signs to look out for –
Early signs are trembling and shivering. Depending on the severity of infection the dog will refuse food and is reluctant to leave his bed. This can happen very suddenly.
If you can see what colour the urine is (easier in males than females!), you will find that it is not the normal yellow colour, but brown in colour. This is the pigment from the red blood cells which are being destroyed. Also, the gums are paler due to the breakdown of red blood cells.
Those of you happy to wield a thermometer will find the temperature is often as high as 104°F or 40°C.
It is the rejection of the red blood cells which causes the clinical signs of lethargy, high temperature, discoloured urine (the pigments from the blood are excreted in the urine), yellowing of the skin, gums and around the eyes i.e. jaundice (when the amount of pigment broken down cannot be excreted quickly enough), muscle weakness and even convulsions.
If you suspect this disease, you must arrange for a vet to see your dog as soon as possible.
Diagnosis.
A definite diagnosis can be difficult, as a blood smear (taken from the ear or a toe) does not always show the parasite. However the vet will use his experience, and as rapid treatment is the key to success, will often treat regardless of whether the parasite is found.
There are blood tests to determine if there is a low grade infection, or to determine if the dog is reacting to an infection, but these take time to analyse and again, treatment is usually started before a result is obtained.
The basis of treatment is an injection which kills the parasite, and this can be repeated after several days. The injection is often painful, so be prepared.
Occasionally antibiotics are also given, and supportive therapy such as a drip or anti vomiting drugs can be useful. Other than that, lots of tender loving care, to persuade your pet to recover is the most valuable tool.
Prevention of the disease.
There are several paths to follow:
1) Firstly using anti tick treatments, such as Frontline or Advantix is very useful. These are easy to apply spot ons and to work well please follow the directions. They must be applied to the skin and not on the hair.
If using the Frontline pump spray, it is important to know your dog’s weight so the number of pumps can be calculated. For example a 30kg Labrador needs 60 pumps of the 250 or 500ml pump bottle!
There is an anti tick collar available called Scalibor, however as it does not treat for fleas, frontline ought to be used every 6-8 weeks in conjunction to prevent flea infestations. Advantix cannot be used with Scalibor, as they are both the same type of drug and an overdose may occur.
2) Then there is the obvious option of checking your dog over daily for ticks, especially in the armpits, groin, belly and between toes. The ease of this task varies greatly depending on the coat of the dog. The ticks can be easily removed using specially developed tools, available from pet shops and vets.
3) Vaccination can help, but the vaccines are not 100% sure and are expensive. These are best given when the disease is not very active, i.e. June/July and January/February.
Most pet owners in the UK are aware that if they bring a dog from mainland Europe into the UK, they must treat it with an anti tick treatment. However, how many treat before visiting mainland Europe with their dog? There is a real need to treat your dog with a proven anti-tick treatment, such as Frontline or Advantix, prior to your visit.
The manufacturers recommend monthly dosing with Advantix or Frontline to control ticks, local vets often advise every 3 weeks during periods of danger.
Read more...
What are the rules about keeping pets in buildings?
The law in France, based on a decision by the Council of State, says that everyone has the right to keep a pet.
According to the Société Protectrice des Animaux (SPA) - the equivalent of the RSPCA - a landlord is not allowed to ban the keeping of pets, which may include the usual cats and dogs as well as ‘new pets’ (les nouveaux animaux de compagnie - les nacs) such as reptiles and tarantulas.
This does not remove the tenant's responsibility for preventing damage to the property or nuisance to neighbours and does not necessarily apply to dogs considered to be of dangerous breeds which are regulated by strict laws in France. However, French vet Dr Brice Martin said what was allowed in theory did not always apply in practice, especially if there were specific rules about animals in the tenant's contract - some landlords might try to enforce a ban even if the theory says they cannot.
He added landlords who did not want animals might also find an excuse not to take on tenants who had them in the first place. So, the answer is you have the right to a pet but it is best to tread carefully and it is preferable to find out your landlord's views. Rules concerning noisy pets can also be strictly enforced and lead to police investigations, court cases and the animal being taken away.
Read more...
According to the Société Protectrice des Animaux (SPA) - the equivalent of the RSPCA - a landlord is not allowed to ban the keeping of pets, which may include the usual cats and dogs as well as ‘new pets’ (les nouveaux animaux de compagnie - les nacs) such as reptiles and tarantulas.
This does not remove the tenant's responsibility for preventing damage to the property or nuisance to neighbours and does not necessarily apply to dogs considered to be of dangerous breeds which are regulated by strict laws in France. However, French vet Dr Brice Martin said what was allowed in theory did not always apply in practice, especially if there were specific rules about animals in the tenant's contract - some landlords might try to enforce a ban even if the theory says they cannot.
He added landlords who did not want animals might also find an excuse not to take on tenants who had them in the first place. So, the answer is you have the right to a pet but it is best to tread carefully and it is preferable to find out your landlord's views. Rules concerning noisy pets can also be strictly enforced and lead to police investigations, court cases and the animal being taken away.
Read more...
Wednesday, July 4, 2007
Monday, February 26, 2007
Puppy - Puppies training
Puppy
A puppy is a juvenile dog, generally less than one year of age. The term is sometimes abbreviated to pup, and in that form is used for the young of some other animals, such as the wolf.
Birth and early development
The number of puppies in a litter varies greatly by breed. Some smaller dogs bear only one or two puppies at a time, while some larger breeds bear ten or more. In some cases, one puppy will be the runt of the litter, being noticeably smaller than the other puppies. The runt is generally quite meek or very aggressive because of its size compared to its siblings.
Born after approximately 63 days of gestation, puppies emerge in an amnion which is bitten off and eaten by the mother dog.
At first, puppies spend ninety percent of their time sleeping and the rest feeding. During their first two weeks, although it is not completely visible, a puppy's senses all develop rapidly. Puppies open their eyes about nine to eleven days following birth. At first, the retina is poorly developed and their vision is poor. Puppies are not able to see as well as adult dogs. In addition, puppies ears remain sealed until about thirteen to seventeen days after birth, after which they respond more actively to sounds. From two to four weeks, puppies usually begin to growl, bite, wag their tails, and bark.
Cropping and docking
Some breeds traditionally have their tails docked or ears cropped, or both. Many countries now ban cropping and docking for cosmetic purposes, but other countries have no such prohibitions. Some breeders prefer to remove a dog's dewclaws to prevent future injuries. All of these procedures are usually performed within the first few days at the veterinarian's office.
Training
Training puppies is not always easy: it requires work. Puppies should be touched and held from birth, although only briefly and occasionally until their eyes and ears open. After that, it is critical for their socialization that they interact often with humans. Otherwise the puppy may become vicious.
Puppies can begin learning what a leash feels like as soon as they are old enough to begin exploring outside their whelping box, just by attaching a leash to their collar and letting them pull it behind them, then walking with the puppy around the house or yard holding onto one end of the leash.
Training of basic obedience can begin at the same time, although recommendations for how intense and how soon vary. Training for young puppies is generally recommended to be light, gentle, and fun, more like a game than an exercise. Most formal puppy classes accept puppies starting at three months of age, although some provide socialization classes for younger pups.
Housebreaking can also begin by the time the puppy is two to three months old, although they simply do not have the physical control of their bodies to be completely reliable until they are six months to a year old.
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